Ride A Wave And Side Surf Combo By Wayne Horodowich |
||||
There are many ways to get to shore through a surf zone. You can chose to work against the forces (see USK article "In-Out Surf Landing"), you can use the forces (I feel like Yoda when I say that) or you can play with combinations of the the two. In this article I will focus on using the forces to get you to shore. If the waves are not too big, I like taking a quick ride and then use the whitewater of the broken wave to side surf me to shore. I call this the lazy paddlers surf landing because you really don't need energy to land. You do need to know how to ride a wave and more importantly how to side surf (see USK article"Side Surfing Control"). Of course this landing method assumes you have a nice clean run to shore without any obstacles (rock, jetties, board surfers, body surfers, etc.) As always, we at USK recommend a helmet when playing in the surf zone. As in all surf zones, secure all items you wish to keep and remove paddle leashes. Remember NOT to use your rudder or skeg when landing. Rudders and skegs need to be up so they do not get broken off if you were to side surf all the way up to the beach. The rudders and skegs get lifted when you are in the swell zone. |
||||
|
Before you decide to surf a wave you need to pick your takeoff spot. This is determined when you are out beyond the breaking waves and comfortably sitting in the swell zone. You know you are in the swell zone when your kayak just goes up and down as the swells pass underneath your boat. You are watching the swells move toward shore and looking for the location where the swell begins to steepen which is before the breaking area. When the swell steepens and you are in front of it with your bow pointing toward shore, the rear of your kayak is lifted first and gravity pulls you down the face of the steepening wave. If you have forward momentum you can get rides on smaller waves. If you want to take off from a dead stop then you need to be where the wave pitches up just before breaking. For the ride and side surf combo, I recommend getting momentum so you can get on the swell sooner. That momentum can also keep you in front of the wave before it breaks. Once you have gained enough speed, the swell will keep you surfing in front if it. If you keep your kayak perpendicular to the wave you should stay straight surfing the swell toward shore. Using a paddle rudder to keep you riding straight is a standard technique used by kayak surfers. If you turn your kayak too soon, you run the risk of having the wave go underneath your boat. Remember your goal is to get to shore. As the wave gets steeper the faster you will go. I like to add a few forward paddle strokes to add to my speed when I know the wave is getting ready to break. I prefer to have the wave breaking just behind my kayak rather than on top of me. Once a waves breaks we are dealing with different water dynamics. A whitewater wave is moving water. Think of it as a moving wall. This is different than the swells which is water just moving up and down. The reason we move forward is due to gravity. A whitewater wave is a moving wall that will eventually turn your kayak sideways and then carry the kayak sideways toward shore. Depending on the size of the whitewater, you can be side surfed to shore upright and/or upside down. The wave doesn't care. Our goal is to stay upright to enjoy the experience. If you allow the broken wave to launch you forward, while still being perpendicular to the wave, you cannot really predict which way you will turn. Since control is key to this combo technique, I recommend that you begin your turn to your preferred side as the wave is breaking. This is done so you will know which side you need to edge and brace. Use your low brace to initiate the turn. When you rotate your body to do a low brace turn your outside knee is already in the correct position, under the coaming doing a knee hang, which edges your kayak which aids in the turn. |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
|
In this case we see Rod starting his turn as the wave breaks behind him. He goes from a low brace turn and changes to a high brace for side surfing. Then he is immediately engulfed by the whitewater of the broken wave. He had his kayak edged properly and was ready with a high brace just before the whitewater hit him. You can see his kayak gets turned by the whitewater. Even though Rod is completely submerged under that froth, he is edging toward the wave and doing a high brace with his elbows pointing down to protect his shoulder (see USK article "Shoulder Safety".) As the whitewater settles down Rod emerges from underwater side surfing toward shore. He is maintaining his edge and brace. Rod is using a high brace but a low brace works just as well. As he side surfs toward shore Rod tries to get his balance point back over his kayak. Even though there is great support provided by the whitewater wave, that support diminishes as the wave dissipates. Therefore, it is in Rod's best interest to get his balance point back over his kayak. The critical point is keeping his kayak on edge while getting his balance point over the boat. If you sit up straight you will likely capsize. As mentioned in the article referenced above on side surfing, one has more control and options when balanced over their kayak. When Rod feels he is close enough to shore where he can have the wave slide underneath his kayak he lifts his shore side hand to do a hanging draw to slow his kayak down. When the wave is small enough the hanging draw will provide enough resistance and drag so the wave will go under the kayak. He does this because he prefers to land with his bow pointing toward shore. If he side surfs all the way to shore, he ends up getting abrupt stops when his hull catches in the shallows. After getting off of the wave he does a sweep stroke to turn his bow toward shore. He can follow the wave he was riding or wait for the next wave to take him up the last few feet to his landing. By having his bow toward shore, he will not have his kayak bashed from the side by the waves which are continuing to come ashore. He also had the choice to point his bow toward the ocean and back paddle his last few yards to shore. Once Rod feels his kayak firmly resting on the bottom he can quickly get out and pull his kayak up the beach to where it is high and dry. I recommend you maintain the greatest control during the last few yards of your landing. There are usually more obstacles closer to shore. Beachcombers, kids at play, dogs chasing kayaks and beach debris await you upon landing. Another reason for not landing sideways is the possibility of getting out on the wrong side of the kayak. If you mistakenly got out on the beach side, the next wave could wash the kayak into you possibly causing injury. That is why we say "never be on the downstream side of a kayak." By pointing your kayak toward shore you eliminate the possibility of a wrong side. |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
|
If you wonder why we don't try to surf straight to shore rather than making the turn as I have suggested, most of the paddlers I see trying to surf straight in usually get turned to the side. The bigger and stronger the waves the faster and sooner they get turned. Sometimes they stay up and sometimes they capsize. They usually capsize because they could not react quick enough to the way the kayak gets turned. That is why I like to control the direction of my turn. The operative word is control. If you are like me and save your energy for when it is really needed, then I suggest you take advantage of the forces offered to you by King Neptune and take a ride to shore. You may get a little wet but soon you will be on shore drying off. In addition, these are great skills to master if you intend to launch and land in surf zones on a regular basis. Enjoy the ride. |
||||
|
Pictures seen above were taken from the USK Video "ABC'S of the Surf Zone" , winner of Years Best Video 2005 from Sea Kayaker Magazine Reader's Poll. Thank you Rod Tucknott for a great ride. Rod Tucknott runs UCSB Adventure Programs and is an ACA Instructor. © Copyright USK |
||||